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Monday 21 September 2015

We made it to the Majestic Qurumbar Lake !

I had never been to such a beautiful, clean and majestic lake. Qurumbar lake (also spelled as Karumbar, situated in the north of District Chitral) is the 2nd highest lake in Pakistan and stands 31st among world lakes. It is situated in the north east of Boroghol (Boroghil) near Wakhan border and Ishkoman (Gilgit). It was September 18th. We, a team of three friends (Amjad, Hameed and Atta) started at 8:30 am from our base camp at Ishkarwaz Boroghol Chitral.


From L to R: Hameed, Amjad, Atta

We rode horses all the way long. Our first stop was at Lashkargaz where we had a break and rest of some 30 minutes. It took about 3 hours ride from base camp (Ishkarwaz) to Lashkargaz. The best thing is to set a second camp at Lashkargaz and have some good rest. But we had time constraint and also the weather was very unpredictable. So, we kept our journey going.
On the way to Lashkargaaz, Boroghol

After a long & tiring yet curious trekking and horse riding we reached at Qurumbar lake. It took us Four and Half hours to reach Qurumbar Lake from Lashkargaz. Usually, it is advised that you should set another camp somewhere on the way (or at Ghari, the pasture land) but we were too curious to wait for that. We were all eager to see what’s ahead. On first sight we thought we have arrived at the target but we found out by a closer look that this lake is too small to be Qurumbar Lake. So we kept going and after another half mile we saw a dark blue, magnificent and clean lake. This had to be the lake of our search. So here we were! All the tiredness, the pain and the efforts seemed to vanish when we reached the lake. Amajd was our team leader and he enjoyed it to the fullest. We all went along well. 
At Qurumbar Lake. Tired, Sunburned But Happy :)

Qurumbar Lake is 14,121 feet above sea level (4321 meters). You can’t see the end point of the lake by standing on one side. Informants say that it is 3.9 KMs long and some 2.5 KMs wide with a depth of 52 meters at the center. The water is fresh and clean. Yaks of the inhabitants of Boroghol are found grazing nearby the lake. 
Yaks left for grazing near Qurumbar Lake

The only human caused pollution we found were few old tin cans (of some cold drinks perhaps) left over by travelers. It seemed so that very few trekkers/travelers have been to that place. Those who have reached there have not camped there for stay and moved back or ahead to Ishkoman Gilgit. Ishkoman is on a 2 days trek from here as said the locals. 

We were very tired. After having some bread with butter we rode back and it was getting darker. We couldn’t reach Lashkargaz (camp 2) so we stayed the night in the pasture land (Ghari). By 8:30 pm it was very dark and our horses were very tired. A family was kind enough to accommodate us. They made us tea and Sanabachi (a local food made of wheat floor and animal fat). After having some pain killers we went to sleep and early in the morning we were awaken by the Baa of goats. Something different from cell phone alarms was good for ears I suppose. J


The next day we reached base camp and had some good rest. But when we got up early in the morning, September 20th, it was snowing so we hurried to our vehicles and rushed to lower Chitral.

Just when the snow fall started, did i dismantle my tent

This trip was full of fun, learning, exploration and curiosity. We were about to give up but the unexplored wilderness ahead of us kept us going and we finally made it to the lake.

Taking the opportunity I would like to put forward some suggestions for people who want to go to Qurumbar lake.
·         The best months to trek to Qurumbar Lake would be June, July and August.
·         Don’t hurry and on the way to the lake set at least 3 camps (at Ishkarwaz, Lashkargaaz and Lake) to fully enjoy the adventure.
·         Leave only foot prints behind. J

(For more on Boroghil, scroll down my previous posts of 2014).